SUBTRACTION CUTTING NEW THING TO KNOW

What is Subtraction Cutting?

Subtraction Cutting technique is invented by Julian Roberts which is about the removal of fabric rather than the addition of fabric to create some amazing shapes around body. This removal creates empty space for the body to occupy, but also effects how the fabric drapes around the body. The subtraction cutting technique can be used to make women or men clothes, bags and millinery or even on a larger scale anything hollow such as a tent or lampshade.

One of the most important benefits of this technique is we can create an amazing garment without too much reference to numbers, fractions or sizing scales. The basic premise of this technique is that the cut-out fabric does not represent garment outer shape, but rather the negative spaces within the garment that make them hollow.

In addition, Subtraction cutting is design with patterns rather than creating patterns for designs. With this pattern cutting technique sometimes you would prefer a happy accident rather than something planed. Subtraction Cutting can be used in any type of fabrics however It would have better visual effects If we use different colored fabrics on a garment.

The Tunnel Technique

The basic of this technique is understanding how the body can pass through a tube that we created by fabrics. One of the simplest forms is the two holes are sewn together to create a single hole where the body travels. Importantly, the hole need to be large enough for the body to pass through so It should be larger than the hip measurement. If the pattern is unfolded It would look like this:

The subtraction Cutting Technique is applied on a garment by using the basic block without darts. When you have this template, we need to elongate the length by at least 3 meters. It must be longer and larger than the body because we need an adequate space for body to pass through and create volumes. It does not need to be straight like an A-line dress, we can have any shape.

It is important that the length and width do not limit the size on number of folds as Subtraction Cutting is all about volumes.

In this technique, we just simply create a bag with opening and closed end. Then, we use the block without darts to trace and cut on upper layer of fabric. Finally, sew the shoulder seam the side seam each side separately. The folded effect is created by cutting circles on the garment and then sew together.

Below are my own samples experienced from subtraction cutting by Julian Roberts

Conclusion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLXnU6IwszxY-bHnabpkzH-JVOMn1IxJEL&v=ZYivBKeT80s

Subtraction Cutting is an interesting technique for fashion students to explore. This technique does not require a good sewing skill which can create volume and space for garments. However, subtraction cutting has some weaknesses in terms of tailoring garments. The simple rule of Subtraction Cutting is creating a tube where body travels and we can add volume by adding fabrics or cutting out and sew together.